Can you bottle homebrew in a growler

Those are pretty slick if you are looking for fewer bottles. Usually, if I am bottling a batch, I try to use 1 liters, a dozen 22 oz. Kind of nice to have a variety of serving sizes. I used to collect 22oz, larger flip top and such and found it to be more of a pain than just having all 12oz. The large different bottle really screwed up space in the fridge shelving and the cellar where I keep bottles. I also didnt like opening a huge bottle if I just wanted a beer if I was out of 12oz.

Oh trust me i want to keg as soon as possible. I'm watching for deals as Christmas hit the wallet pretty good. Growlers, like the ones pictured below are only rated for pressures up to 2. I've never tried it, but I read on a brewing forum somewhere, that someone had one explode in their face bottle bomb and actually cause injury from the glass The only time I bottled in a growler, I had this same issue.

You could get around that by pouring the whole growler into a pitcher I guess. Northern Brewer General. Growlers are great for filling from the keg. As far as the screw top ones go, I hear they people are not as successful with them.

Author Topic: Carbonating in Growlers? Read times. Will they seal well enough? Any adjustments to be made? Joe Sr. Official Poobah of No Life. Never done it. But, my recollection is it is possible but not recommended. I assume you are talking about standard screw top growlers. The glass is relatively thin, so you take a risk there. That's the biggest draw back I see.

The thinness of the growler would be my concern too, there are ways around the potential cap leaking. It seems to take several days at fridge temperatures for the CO2 to fully saturate the liquid for a maximum saturation for that liquid temperature. While the CO2 is moving into the liquid, the pressure slowly drops.

I've monitored this process as well with the pressure gauge. Pressures go way higher than folks think while bottle conditioning. In the following data, I carbed sweet hard cider and stopped the carbing and then pasteurized the cider when the bottle was at 22 PSI. My Lager went above 35 PSI.

The data doesn't show the extremes the pressure rises with beer as I stopped the cider at 22 PSI, but it would have continued if i hadn't stopped it. The gauge bottle has a nice side effect, it tells you when your bottles are conditioned as the pressure rise stops. I then throw them in the Fridge to cold condition for several days before I open. The gauge also tells you when they are carbed as the pressure drop stops. Pretty basic really. No, when you bottle condition, the slight fermentation we cause by adding priming sugar just builds pressure up in the bottle.

The pressures seem to go up into the 30's and 40's PSI from what I've seen. The CO2 doesn't really move into the liquid until the temperature drops. Some CO2 may, but not the majority of it. CO2 doesn't dissolve into solution until a lower temperature. This is really what we do when we force carb in a keg.

We raise the pressure up when the beer is cold. The CO2 moves into the solution. The tap pressure is lowered for proper delivery and the beer either sets for cold aging, or it is consumed at that time. What you would see with the pressure gauge if you use one bigger than my first bottle had. Should use a PSI Gauge is that the pressure climbs over time and will level off. Once the pressure levels off, that means all of the priming sugar has been used up by the yeast.

Next, you put them into the fridge. You will see the pressure drop over several days. Eventually, it also will level off. I like to let them sit for a few more days after that, but really if the pressure stops dropping, all of the CO2 that can be dissolved at that temperature has been achieved.

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